TO THE ENDS OF THE EARTH

Ela and Greg Kedzior have been travelling through South America on their Pan America™ since mid-2022. Now, having reached Ushuaia – on the southernmost tip of South America – they look back on some of the most memorable moments of the last few months.

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY ELA AND GREG KEDZIOR

It has been seven months since we started our South America expedition. During that time, we’ve travelled just shy of 17,400 miles (28,000km), visited six new countries, had countless unforgettable experiences and met many amazing people.

It’s impossible to summarise such a long and intensive period in one article, but we want to share what we remember most from these countries.

ECUADOR

At first, we thought we’d be able to visit this relatively small country in a short period of time – around three weeks. However, it turned out that even after five weeks there was still a lot we hadn’t seen. It may be small, but Ecuador has a lot to offer. Here we came across the terms sellva (jungle), sierra (mountains) and costa (coast) for the first time. These are topographical belts that strongly differentiate Ecuador naturally, as well as culturally.

What stuck in our minds the most was undoubtedly the visit to Chimborazo Wildlife Reserve (home to the highest peak in the country). For the first time in our lives, we were higher than 16,400 feet (5,000m) above sea level. However, this wasn’t on two wheels – Ecuadorian authorities prohibit the entry of motorcycles into national parks and nature reserves. Therefore, we had to leave our Pan America bike in a parking lot, take a pick-up truck to the trail and cover the last 820 feet (250m) on foot, which was no easy task at such an altitude!

Another unforgettable moment was crossing the Andes – something we did twice. Beautiful mountain trails winding through passes at an altitude of more than 15,400 feet (4,700m). Above the cloud layer. The views from these places will live long in the memory…

PERU

Peru, considered by many travellers as a paradise for motorcyclists, promised to have much to offer. We had many points of interest to visit and a fairly detailed route planned through the country. Also on our itinerary was a service for our motorcycle. More than two weeks before leaving Ecuador, we had contacted Harley‑Davidson® Lima to let them know we’d be coming. We received our confirmation in a flash, along with an invitation to the Harley-Davidson Club of Peru meeting, which was to be held at Cusco a week after our service appointment. We couldn’t refuse such an invitation, and the wonderful people we met both at the dealership and the rally – which had a fantastic atmosphere – will remain in our hearts.

The motorcycle routes we rode in the Peruvian Andes have to be some of the greatest mountain roads we’ve travelled in our lives. The most difficult so far was Route 106 through Huascarán National Park, which was more like a mountain trail: the steep, narrow, winding and rocky road was a big challenge for two to ride together. Thankfully we managed to face the challenge without tipping over before reaching our record height on two wheels, at 15,456 feet (4,711m). A few weeks later, however, we beat that record on another scenic Andean route: no. 120, which passes through the Reserva Paisajistica Nor Yauyos-Cochas. On that occasion, we managed to ascend to 16,181 feet (4,932m) above sea level over a stretch that covered 87 miles (140km). We’re not ashamed to say that the reward of the view from the ‘attic’ of the world provoked a few tears of pure emotion!

BOLIVIA

This was a country we were a little apprehensive about, having heard warnings from everywhere about problems with the availability and quality of fuel, and the quality of the roads. Nevertheless, we decided to check it out for ourselves.

There are two types of fuel available in Bolivia: 89 octane gasoline and diesel. Both fuels have separate, higher prices for foreigners, and we had heard of cases of foreigners not being able to buy fuel because allegedly there might not be enough for the locals. However, throughout our time travelling the country we never encountered any problems. As the old saying goes, Harley-Davidson brings people together, and so it was in Bolivia! We were similarly pleasantly surprised by the quality of the Bolivian roads. Although there were gravel roads to contend with, the main routes were even and of a very high standard.

All the myths that gave us trepidation about crossing the border proved to be nothing more than that, and we have only fond memories and a lot of great new friendships among Bolivians.

The most unforgettable experience of our time there was the salt desert of Uyuni and the night we spent under a tent on one of the islands of this natural wonder. On one hand, we faced the very harsh climate of the place, with strong winds and extreme cold the night, but on the other we were able to enjoy the absolute silence of the morning, the amazing sunset and the sky full of stars.

ARGENTINA

Such a beautiful and naturally diverse country, and one that felt somewhat closer to us culturally because of the multitude of immigrants who have come from Europe over time.

It’s a country of great wine, excellent steaks and ubiquitous yerba mate herbal tea. Thanks to an inflation crisis, it’s also a country of cheap fuel provided you use the blue dollar – the exchange rate of the US dollar on the street. Finally, after a break in Bolivia, our Pan America was able to run on high-octane 98 fuel once more, available from $1.89 per gallon (50 cents per litre)!

For many motorcyclists, Argentina primarily means one thing: the legendary Ruta 40 which runs through the country. We found riding through Argentina’s Patagonia challenging – however, the scenery we experienced on Ruta 40 compensated for all the hardship of this place: The majestic massif of Monte Fitz Roy, which appeared before us as we reached the town of El Chaltén, and the amazing Perito Moreno Glacier were the showstopping pieces of Argentina Patagonia for us.

RUTA 40 – ARGENTINA’S ROUTE 66

Strongly varied in terms of landscape and also in the quality of the road itself, this legendary road – known to locals as La Cuarenta – is often compared to North America’s ‘Mother Road’ (Route 66) and totals more than 3,100 miles (5,000km) in length. At points, it’s beautiful and scenic, and at others it stretches on for endless miles in a completely straight line, as if drawn with a ruler.

The road isn’t an easy one to ride, with dirt and gravel stretches, hairpin bends and strong side winds making it a battle with the elements – as well as limited gas stations along the way – but for those who choose to take up the challenge, the rewards are great.

You’ll encounter truly awe-inspiring sights, reach what’s said to be the highest point on a national road anywhere in the world (at Abra del Acay) and know that you’ve mastered one of the toughest riding challenges out there.

CHILE

For us, this was undoubtedly the most developed country of the western part of the continent. For those who arrive by plane from Europe or North America, it probably feels like you’re not so far from home, but the magic of Chile begins to spread from the border of Patagonia.

The road known as Carretera Austral (Route 7) – the motorcycling showcase of Chile – is the equivalent of Argentina’s Ruta 40. The route, which starts in Puerto Montt, goes south, meandering through mountains, lakes and fjords. For the most part, especially in the south, it’s a gravel route, which makes it very challenging – although the Chilean authorities are working to make it more accessible, with new sections being paved each year.

In the southern part of Chile, there’s another natural attraction that stands out: Torres del Paine National Park. Although mainly known as a paradise for trekking enthusiasts, motorcyclists here can also have a lot of fun visiting! Chilean Patagonia is fascinating, and undoubtedly different from its eastern neighbours, but it’s hard to put into words. You really have to see it with your own eyes.

LOOKING AHEAD

As the first stage of our expedition came to an end, we reached the Argentinian province of Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire) and within it Ushuaia, known as the city at the end of the world. It’s the capital of Tierra del Fuego, as well as provinces Antártida and Islas del Atlántico Sur, and served as a symbolic destination on our trip; however, we certainly discovered on the way there that the journey is more important than the destination!

Ahead of us is our return trip and seven more new countries to explore. We hope we’re up to the task we’ve set for ourselves!

Keep up to date with Ela and Greg’s adventures by following them at https://screwitletsride.com.

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