WHERE THE SEA MEETS THE SKY

Towering pine trees, snowcapped mountains and miles of curves – all in a day’s riding on Canada’s West Coast

WORDS BY ANDRA NEDELCU
PHOTOS BY JACK MADELEY

It’s often said in the motorcycle world that “four wheels move the body; two wheels move the soul.” Owning and riding a motorcycle makes you feel invincible. It creates a sensation of the purest freedom, and for a moment in time you feel open to any adventure life serves up.

I’ve been a motorcycle enthusiast for more than 20 years. As I evolved from riding a small trail bike to racing motocross and now to riding a Harley-Davidson®, one thing has remained constant: the joy motorbikes have brought on the trails, track or open road. While I spent most of my 20s in the air at the motocross track, in my 30s I discovered the sheer enjoyment of a winding road. Riding the best bike in the world and living in one of the most beautiful places is a guaranteed recipe for some unforgettable rides. But before I take you on my journey along one of the most spectacular motorcycling routes in North America, allow me to backtrack a bit.

In my 37 years, I’ve been fortunate to experience much of the world from some very fun and exciting perspectives. From skydiving in New Zealand, to kiteboarding in Costa Rica, to paragliding in Switzerland and skiing countless resorts throughout the world, I guess you could say I’ve always chased adventure. My parents packed up and left Eastern Europe back in 1997. They were drawn to Canada’s West Coast by the world-famous mountains and stories of epic skiing. As I’ve competed in skiing ever since I can remember, it was only natural for my parents to choose Vancouver’s North Shore as our new home. In 2010, I proudly walked onto the world stage as I competed at the Winter Olympics in freestyle skiing. It was the pinnacle of all things adventure up to that point in my life.

After retiring from skiing in 2011, I made the decision to treat myself to a Harley-Davidson motorcycle; something I had dreamed of for years while I dabbled in motocross. It felt like the right time to switch from airborne sports to enjoying life a bit more grounded. Despite having visited some incredible places and having tried some of the most fun activities imaginable, I have yet to find something that simultaneously exhilarates and calms the mind quite like motorcycling. Only a fellow biker will truly understand the way a motorcycle on the open road awakens one’s soul.

TWISTS AND TURNS

Living on the West Coast allows me to explore some of the most scenic motorcycling landscapes Canada has to offer. With endless elevations, curves, waterways, snowy peaks and arid desert, each ride is more spectacular than the last. Currently calling Horseshoe Bay my backyard, I feel fortunate to be able to jump on the scenic Sea to Sky Highway (aka Highway 99) at any given moment.

This world-renowned stretch of road connecting Vancouver to Whistler has some of the most breathtaking views in the Pacific Northwest. From the snowcapped mountains dipping their rocky roots into the Pacific Ocean to bald eagles soaring and settling into giant pine trees perched on the banks of the glacier-fed Squamish River, one can’t help but wonder if this place is even real.

BETWEEN THE STORYBOOK SCENERY, THE WILDLIFE AND MY BEAUTIFUL BIKE, THIS WAS ANOTHER UNFORGETTABLE DAY OF REDISCOVERING MY BACK YARD

On this particular morning, I decided to start my day early and take advantage of perfect motorcycling conditions. As a mum of two girls under the age of three, you can imagine that days like this are incredibly rare and special. Most days I can barely find the time to make a cup of coffee, let alone get on the bike. But today was my day. I geared up, jumped on my Iron 883™ and waved to the girls as I rode off the driveway.

As I turned onto Highway 99, I was immediately greeted by a ferry sailing into the bay from Nanaimo with a background so picturesque that I couldn’t help but do a double take. It was a smooth ride to my first stop at Porteau Cove Provincial Park along the shoreline of Howe Sound. Situated on the most southerly fjord in North America, the park frequently surprises awestruck visitors with seals and orca sightings. I typically stop here to take in the incredible views and almost enter a meditative state as I listen to the waves crashing on the shore.

Stopping along the Sea to Sky Highway is also a sure way to meet fellow riders, and sure enough I was not the only one paused at Porteau Cove. Aside from the opportunity to experience new places and feel a certain kind of freedom, meeting like-minded people is one of my favourite things about riding motorcycles. After exchanging a few stories and route suggestions, I jumped back on my Harley® to ride on toward Squamish.

WILDLIFE WONDERLAND

As I passed Britannia Beach, a small community just off Highway 99, I spotted a great little coffee shop hidden by the entrance to the old copper mine and made a mental note to stop on the way home. Once in Squamish, I decided to explore the Squamish River a little longer. The winding road hugging the banks of the river feels like a paved playground in the lowlands of the Squamish Valley.

Towering cedar trees create tunnels along the road, forming a canopy-like wonderland. I was on cloud nine as I felt that my last ride of the season had lived up to my expectations. I felt relaxed and recharged, and was once again in complete awe of this magical place I call home.

Outside Squamish, I parted ways with the Pacific Ocean and was greeted by the magnificent Tantalus Range. With numerous viewpoints along the route, one can easily lose track of time while getting lost in the beauty that surrounds them. The Sea to Sky Highway can certainly be travelled in a day, but it’s impossible to fully absorb and appreciate the changes in terrain, temperature and scenery at full throttle. However, with just one R & R day on my hands, I had to complete my ride in Whistler before heading back.

Between the storybook scenery, the wildlife and my beautiful bike, this was another unforgettable day of rediscovering my back yard. On the way home, I stopped for my long-awaited coffee before heading back to my girls. I hope the motorcycling bug catches them, too, and one day I can share the joy of riding with them as we explore the Sea to Sky and beyond. Until then, I’ll take advantage of the rare and special days I can jump on my bike and enjoy a different kind of screaming (V-)twin.

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