AUTUMN VAGABOND

A well-travelled Ontario distance rider offers his favourite fall rides across the country

By Mark Keating

Fall is my favourite time of year to ride. I always plan some trips to take maximum advantage of the warm midday temps bookended by the crisper dawn and dusk as the leaves start to change.

I have enjoyed great fall rides from coast to coast. Most are enjoyable any time of the year but truly excel when the trees show their colours. This happens earlier further north or at higher altitudes, so you can enjoy multiple rides at different points in the season.

ATLANTIC CANADA

The obvious East Coast route is the Cabot Trail. The loop is only 300 kilometres, doable in a single day. However, the time needed to get to and from Cape Breton Island typically leads riders to stay on the island (and either ride the loop multiple times or take multiple days to complete the full tour).

A little less well-known ride is found in southwest New Brunswick. Starting at Harley-Davidson of Moncton, travel a 200 to 300 km loop taking in the Fundy Bay Coast and heading up into the hills west of Salisbury, cutting back to Moncton either along the Trans-Canada Highway or, for little more time in the saddle, a more scenic route along the Canaan River. The route passes Hopewell Rocks, Fundy National Park, and countless charming villages.

QUEBEC

Arguably the most popular motorcycle route in Quebec is around the Gaspé Peninsula, and fall is my favourite time of year there. The whole loop is the better part of 1,000 km starting and finishing at Harley-Davidson Rimouski, making it a multi-day trip for all but the hardiest of long-distance riders. Just beware the potential for fall storms – the coast road is quite exposed and conditions can deteriorate quickly.

The Laurentian Mountains are also a great autumn option. Starting from Montreal or Ottawa, a beautiful half-day loop takes in 360 km of hills, curves and vistas as you pass through the charming villages of Montebello and Lachute, as well as the resort town of Mont-Tremblant on routes 327, 323 and 148 along the Ottawa River.

ONTARIO

Highway 60 through Algonquin Park is stunning, but traffic can make the route less than ideal. The nearby Kawarthas and Muskokas see less traffic and are just as beautiful.

A little further afield, Lake Superior is well worth the trip. Starting in Sault Ste. Marie, a well-worn 700 km loop takes in Wawa, Chapleau and Iron Bridge, including Highway 129 – a.k.a. “the Dragon of the North.” While not nearly as epic as its U.S. cousin, it’s nonetheless a spectacular ride along the Mississagi River Valley.

PRAIRIES

I’m cheating a little by calling this the Prairies, but one of my very favourite places in Canada to ride is the 350 km stretch of the Trans-Canada between Dryden, Ontario, and Winnipeg. In the stunning landscapes of northwest Ontario, the road never seems straight for more than few hundred metres, and there are lakes as far as the eye can see. The terrain changes instantly as you pass into Manitoba – endless sky and agricultural land all the way to the horizon.

One of the most scenic roads across Saskatchewan is the Qu’Appelle Valley Scenic Route. It runs almost halfway across the province, from the Manitoba border to the outskirts of Regina. It might be best travelled on a Harley-Davidson^® Pan America™, given the mix of tarmac and gravel road surface.

ALBERTA

The Icefields Parkway, running 230 km (one way) from Lake Louise to Jasper, is a bucket-list ride for any self-respecting motorcyclist. One has to respect the mountain weather, so check ahead to ensure your fall ride will be warm and dry.

Alternatively, there’s a wonderful loop starting at Calgary Harley-Davidson. The highlight is Highway 40 over Highwood Pass in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. The climb southwards from the Trans-Canada Highway a little east of Canmore inevitably includes wildlife sightings before the exhilarating descent into Longview, where it’s worth stopping at the Twin Cities Saloon.

BRITISH COLUMBIA

A favourite loop is up Highway 99 from Vancouver through Whistler to Lillooet, then down the Fraser River Valley to Hope, following the Trans-Canada back to the Lower Mainland. At a little over 500 km, it’s an all-day affair offering a mix of Pacific views and twisty mountain roads. As with other high-altitude routes, check the weather to ensure you don’t get caught in a winter storm.

In the Interior, there’s a beautiful 550 km loop anchored in Kelowna. Take Highway 97 and the Trans-Canada Highway to the northernmost point of the loop in Revelstoke, then follow the Arrow Lake coastline on Highway 23 and Highway 6, crossing the lake on inland ferries at both Shelter Bay and Fauquier. After the second ferry, continue westward along Highway 6 to pick up Highway 97 back into Kelowna. Or, extend the loop by turning south to Osoyoos before turning north through Penticton, adding about 200 km.

Lifetime HOG Member Mark Keating (IG: @markwkeating) has explored (almost) every corner of North America on his Harley-Davidson^® motorcycles. As winner of the 2020 & 2021 HOG Canada ABCs of Touring challenge and holder of 49 Iron Butt Association (IBA) certificates – including three “first-ever” – Mark has officially found his happy place with a proverbial full tank.

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